After
a very successful trip with Sicklebill Safaris to Papua New Guinea in 2009 we
booked our birding trip to Mongolia with great anticipation. Our prior
knowledge was very limited but our experience with Mongolia – the people, our
itinerary, our wonderful guides and our overall adventure far exceeded all
expectations.
Asian Dowitcher, Limnodromus semipalmatus
From
the time we were met at the Ulaanbaatar airport by our guide Sundev Gombobaatar
(Gomboo) we felt relaxed and welcome. Our comfortable locally owned and managed
city hotel was well located, run by helpful staff and included a good
restaurant. We enjoyed a spectacular performance by the Mongolian National Song
and Dance Ensemble on our first evening. Next day we thrilled to a full day
with Gomboo birding around the city ponds (gravel pits), along the beautiful
Tuul River and the old railway, we saw Demoiselle Crane, Hoopoe, Tufted
Pochard, Great-crested Grebe, Azure Tit, Azure-winged Magpie, Grey Wagtail and
White Wagtail. Our lunch in the first of many tourist ger camps will long be
remembered for the amazing content of Mongolian artifacts. With this
introduction to Mongolia we knew we were destined for a privileged birding safari.
Przewalski's wild horse, Equus ferus przewalskii |
Beyond
the country’s capital for the next two weeks in taiga forests, mountain steppes
interspersed with lakes, marshes and rivers, semi-desert regions and adjoining
high rocky mountains we were guided by Gomboo firstly and then by one of his
well-trained guides. With their expert spotting eyes and well-tuned ears our
guides offered us unforgettable birding memories.
Siberian Crane, Grus leucogeranus |
Around
the lakes and marshes in the steppe country migrating waders and shorebirds
still in full breeding plumage were replenishing fat stores en-route from their
breeding grounds in Siberia to the southern hemisphere along the Pacific
flyways. We lost ourselves in wondrous hours of close up birding learning
finite details differentiating the many sandpipers, stints, curlews, plovers
and waterfowl. Our tits in the taiga moment where for one glorious mid-afternoon
we were surrounded by twittering long-tailed, coal, willow and grey tits
simultaneously made for a magic memory. With our guides’ enthusiasm and passion
they managed to raise raptors to a higher level in our birding desires, the oft
maligned vultures now being recognised for the magnificent birds they are.
Demoiselle Crane, Anthropoides virgo |
Beyond
the birding experience life in rural Mongolia was opened to us through visits
to nomad gers, fermented fares’ milk and hard cheese hospitality, the large
herds of goats and sheep, yaks, domesticated horses, the Argali sheep, deer sightings,
the successful reintroduction of the Takai, the stunning wildflowers, a
seabuck-thorn plantation, an old monastery and numerous Shaman shrines. Our
accommodation beyond Ulaanbaatar was mostly in tourist ger camps. This unique
experience was warm and comfortable with adequate mainly Mongolian meals
provided.
Eurasian Spoonbill, Platalea leucorodia |
Our last few days in Ulaanbaatar the many museums, the Winter Palace, the Gandan Kilid Monastery (“the great place of complete joy”), the high quality Cashmere House and the central Chinggis Khaan Square provided us with a rich introduction to the glorious past and hopeful future of this little known country to us and many of our Australian compatriots.
Demoiselle Crane, Anthropoides virgo |
Our
three week trip was well organised, guides were exceptionally knowledgeable and
caring, the Mongolians a very friendly people and we were treated with the
greatest of respect. Above all –it was FUN. Thank you Mongolia!